The Dover Dash is Done

We weren't looking forward to three train journeys to get from Amsterdam to Dover. First to Brussels, on to London and then fast train to Dover. Some helpful strangers and reasonable steps onto trains meant our fears weren't realised. Our Dover accommodation is right on the water and has a very English feel, though a Best Western.

Even though we arrived in rain yesterday the sun greeted us this morning. Breakfast on the high street and a visit to the tourist info centre set us up for the day ahead. Starting with Dover castle and then a train to Deal this afternoon.  

We had heard lots of good reviews of the castle (built circa 1100) and we were not disappointed. Like Rothenburg last weekend, there was a medieval event on which was a very entertaining and really brought the castle to life. The tours of the tunnels, originally built under the castle in the 1700s and then utilised in WWII, were fascinating. It was a easy to spend lots of time exploring in the sunshine so I did my best Andrew O'Keefe and declared "No deal"! (You probably had to be there!)

Visiting Boots, chemist (I haven't forgotten my job Madeleine) was on a quest for a miracle cure for my bug. Lisa had a very peaceful day as I avoided speaking as there is no real voice and my attempts to speak are painful! Hoping it's just running a natural course.

We had vague thoughts of hopping over to Paris tomorrow, as we thought it would be easy. I mean we can see France from here! However the novelty of going for the day we have decided is in the too hard/nice idea but completely ridiculous basket!   

We are enjoying the ability to decide what and when we do something and the ability it eat simply and reasonably. Loved the tour/cruise thing but the break is very good.
Four weeks down and three to go!

Now Is The Hour ....

A slow sail into Amsterdam was good for organising and packing. Once there our Freedom of Choice tour began with an hour canal cruise. Pleasant, informative and not nearly as hot as we experienced twenty years ago. A short walk,  including floating flower markets which were very cool. A bus tour which did nothing but confirm you have to be mad/fool hardy/brave to drive, cycle or walk in Amsterdam. An obligatory photo stop at a windmill and back to the ship. 

Our final dinner shared with most of our companions of nearly four weeks now was, as always, very enjoyable. We have been very lucky to meet up with such pleasant people. Demographic is much older than when we went to Canada, but we can't complain about the people we have so closely shared this wonderful experience.

Map in hand nine of us headed to the Red Light District. All, other than us, circa seventy and all, other than us, had been before! Lisa and I played teachers on excursion, one at the front and one at the back! Oh my! Went from amazing, to funny to sad. Found myself composing RE style wondering questions. "I wonder what they do in the day?", "I wonder how much they make?" " I wonder if they are happy?" "I wonder what their hopes and dreams are?" etc
According to our APT guide one tour visited and there was a great 'to do' when a guy came across his niece who the family thought was studying in Europe. Glad I had no such surprise ... Thinking ex student rather than nieces V, G, M, J and M! Petty sure I know where you all are!

Five of us had a nightcap on the 11th floor of the Hilton to get an overview of the city. Worth it, except we got back too late to say goodbye to our favourite barman. 
This morning was like army manoeuvres. So many  people heading off in different directions at different times, all organised by the excellent cruise director Jude. Again APT have shone in their professionalism and standard of touring. Highly recommend.

Our day was spent finding a post office for me to send a parcel home, avoiding rain by doing laundry, having a nap and then walking for hours late this afternoon. We head to Dover via three trains tomorrow. The one day of the trip I have not been looking forward to. Fingers crossed all will go smoothly. Feeling pre-tonsillitis. Hopefully Betadine and Panadol will work.

More Than "Another Bloody Cathedral"

There is so much to see when river cruising, so a slow meander up the Rhine towards Cologne was a very pleasant  way to spend the morning.  Feeling more like winter than a week off summer, the grey clouds did nothing to threaten our afternoon touring of Cologne. Other than the anticipated cathedral, which was indeed very impressive, there was nothing much about this big and bustling city to entice.  No 'old city', no city wall, no real character that one could embrace in an afternoon. 

Farewell dinner was followed by drinks in the lounge. As we travel north and get closer to summer the days are getting much longer. Twilight at 9.40 last night. Norway will be amazing!

Amsterdam tomorrow. Also need to meet the challenge of packing again!

A Right Royal Day

The day began in Rudesheim where we took the gondola up the mountain to be treated to far reaching views of the Rhine valley and the surrounding towns. The journey, high above vineyards, was pretty spectacular. 

An afternoon of scenic cruising followed. I haven't been bragging about the weather for the last week. Cool and cloudy most days. We had all the blankets out on deck as we sailed passed medieval castles, some in ruins and others meticulously restored. Had to give in when the rain came but we stayed in reception, crossing from one door to the opposite so as not to miss anything. It wasn't completely unpleasant but certainly not as perfect as last week's scenic cruise.

To continue the royal theme APT have a deal with Princess Heidi Von Hohenzollern, who married into Belgian royalty. Sadly her husband died in 2001 but prior to this they had restored the 14th century castle, which they inherited. Their intention was a to sell but once they fixed it up for sale they fell in love with the acoustics in the main hall, The Hall of Mirrors. As musicians they decided to keep it and make the castle a cultural centre. A chamber music festival is held annually and the castle is also used for events such as weddings and conferences. All APT ships stop there for dinner which keeps them busy more than 4 nights a week in cruising season. Heidi greeted us and invited us to explore the grounds and building before striking the gong to call us all to a lovely meal in the Hall of Mirrors.   We were served by delightful wait staff who are in hospitality training. The synchronised service was very impressive. The grand piano was brought to life by a young music masters  student who played Chopin and Schubert between courses.

Definitely a very royal day!

Serene Sunday

As Saturday was a busy day, Sunday was an easy one. Cruising, with a glassblowing demonstration, was as a active as the morning got. After lunch we toured Miltenberg. Another cute and unique town which had many gorgeous fairy tale looking half timbered houses. To add interest there was a treasure hunt, which to us just felt like homework! 
Our group of fifteen dined in the exclusive restaurant, which everyone one does once each week.   Food was not as good as last week on ship number one but still very pleasant. We spent some time after on the top deck sipping and chatting and ducking as we passed under very low bridges. The sun-deck has been flattened since we arrived on this ship due to the very low bridges on the Main-Danube Canal. 
All in all a much more pleasant way to spend a Sunday when otherwise I would be writing reports! 

Third trip to Rothenburg ... Always leave wanting more!

Woke in Kitzingen ... Quaint little town. We were welcomed by the mayor/actor? Who led us on an informative walk to the oldest wine cellar in Germany! Well at least til someone else works out they are claiming that title and challenge them! Wine tasting at 10am! Who says I don't live dangerously! Early lunch and then off to Rothenburg. A great favourite of our two previous visits to Bavaria.  Bonus today was a medieval festival as it is Pentecost weekend. Christmas shops, original town wall walk, odd people in odd costumes. A very lovely day.

Dinner ... Then Ricky Martin look alike crooner who was entertaining. Best bit was watching him run for the exit and jumping off at the lock and then sitting on his amp as we sailed off and he waited for a cab! Very weird life here on the river!

Beautiful Bamberg ... Beautiful Julia and James Day

Woke to spectacular sunshine. .... cool but perfect. Toured medieval town. Lovely city, such history, WWII salvation and good shopping. Spoons needed. Warning ... Do not read next paragraph unless you have nothing to do ...

We arrived on our new vessel yesterday ... all about high rivers and low bridges. Our 'new' ship was the ship we were meant to begin on originally. It is only their third trip ever having been christened recently by Princess Heidi, who we will visit next week ... But I digress.  When asked how dinner was by our new waiter(ie not Katut!), after out first meal, on the 'new' ship I pointed out that eating soup out of tiny bowls with table spoons was not a good experience.  Minutes later he returned to me with a dinner plate with every possible spoon on board, including a ladle, asking which I would prefer! I said I would eat their lovely soup with my dessert spoon and wipe it on my napkin and then reuse for dessert! 
Returning from the bar at midnight we found our delightful cruise director working at her desk. She asked how dinner was and I made a comment about the spoons! "It was you!"  She was in the process of writing an in incident report  to APT, as someone had complained about the soup spoons! 
I bought her a Bamberg spoon today and a postcard of cutlery (a random find!) writing "just stirrin"!

Afternoon scenic cruising/snoozing! An always lovely dinner which was followed by entertaining medieval music duo. Topped off with me and Rod on the top deck dancing and sipping Cointreau in the city and moon light with perfect river reflections. 

Beautiful niece, Julia, engaged to bow, James, today. Lots to celebrate!

Two Ships For The Price Of One

Today, due to water levels (complicated story) we changed ships. We drove about three hours to Nuremberg through lovely rolling Bavarian hills. We stopped at one of the three biggest locks on the Main-Danube canal. River cruising in Europe is new, well this one at least, as the Rhine and the Danube did not link until a canal was built, opening in 1992.   Even for a non engineer I found it very interesting.

 Arriving at Nuremberg we lunched and then toured, what is obviously a very interesting city which  we just skimmed the surface of, in two hours.  Medieval era, meets industrial and Nazi eras. All very interesting. Would loved to have walked the old city wall.
Then to unpack and settle into our new ship. Welcome cocktail party and dinner half way through trip was a bit weird!  

At Easter I stood several nights on my Narwee balcony imagining when I would see the moon next in Europe. Tonight we have played cards in our cabin watching the western sky as the moon set. Ah .... That was until we entered a lock and we lost the final minutes! Such is river/canal life! 

River Life Is Unpredictable

"Winter has returned" was the comment from our cruise director this morning. Cold and wet. We sailed through the morning to Regensburg by lunch and then set off on tours. We "active walkers" set a cracking pace as we traversed the Danube several times before sightseeing in the old town, including a Roman gate. The showers were kind. Gentle, though persistent. 

Back onboard we set sail - backwards! The Danube at present is rising at over 5cm an hour but this was worse two weeks ago. We are not on the ship we should be as it couldn't pass under the low bridges to get to Budapest so the plan has been that we swap tomorrow with the one we were planned to be on. Once on the Rhine all will be well as the Americans blew up the bridges that could have caused a problem!  Bottom line - we had to repack which is annoying and we lose our lovely crew which is sad. The ship is identical so no issue there. Hopefully the swap over will go smoothly. They are very efficient and even when things don't go to plan, Plan B or C is executed seamlessly. 

Fingers crossed for no rain tomorrow.

Even A Little Rain Couldn't Dampen The Sound Of Music

We rose to cool conditions and evidence of rain. An early start with departure from the ship at 7.30 for 8.25 departure on the Imperial Imperator, a beautifully restored train from the era of the Habsbergs.  Champagne, muffin, croissants and lovely scenery for two hours to Salzburg. Our walking tour was in very light rain and extremely informative. Non Sound of Music fans may have been frustrated but I thought she handled the balance well. Two hours free time passed quickly in mainly dry conditions. The return train journey included more wine and nibbles and entertainment from the local Sound of Music theatre restaurant team. All good fun. 

A long day, eleven hours all up, was topped off with another lovely meal, good company and night cap in the lounge. Doing a tour first means you really feel you are on a cruise with friends. Works really well for us. A slow start tomorrow which is very welcomed. Being a tourist is very hard work!

The Stuff Brochures Are Made Of

Cool spring morning greeted us as we arrived in Durnstein. Delightful hillside town with beautiful church, medieval significance and great shops.  A long solo wander was just what was needed. Too many guided tours can do your head in! 

An early lunch and then three hours of 'scenic cruising'. Top deck, deck chair, umbrella, perfectly balanced commentary and mood music,  local wine and appropriate finger food (even an ice cream party!) , spring sunshine, no wind .... simply perfect. The Wachau Valley revealed hillside vineyards, quaint villages, Austrian church steeples, May Poles, ruined and restored castles and rolling hills and mountains round every Danube bend.  All I had hoped for in this river cruise experience. 

Arriving late afternoon in Melk we headed off on a guided tour of the amazing 600 year old abbey. Beautifully presented for those of us, a bit in the know, and impressive too for the uninitiated. A very pleasant walk through the town back to the ship. 

Yet another delightful meal with our Croatian tour group followed. 

BTW ... Last night I spent from 12 - 1 on the top deck experiencing the sail away from Vienna. Just me and the captain in the bridge!  Cold but worth it. 

Ah ... Still Vienna!

Free wifi is one thing, but reliable wifi is something else. We were warned that countryside and valleys impact reception but we are sitting at the Vienna dock and last night's post has still not gone.  We'll see what happens with this.

We selected to do the tour of the summer palace of the Habsburg's: Schonbrunn. A very opulent palace which had fabulous gardens, though not as good as Versailles. This occupied our morning with a return onboard for lunch before a free afternoon. We opted to stay put, wash, watch two movies on our impressive cabin entertainment system and walk laps of the sun deck rather than go back into the city. With two weeks of full on touring, some down time was much need.

Our Croatia group booked into the small restaurant tonight which was lovely, kicking onto the lounge for nightcaps. It is about 20 minutes to midnight when we set sail for our morning arrival in Durnstein. Think I'll brave the spring night air to enjoy the  disappearing Vienna.  

Ah Vienna!

A little sleep-in was appreciated after lots of days with school wake up time. Straight to the sun deck after breakfast to for 5000 steps worth of laps watching the Danube swiftly pass. A first lock experience was before lunch. We pass more than sixty locks over the two weeks. Very interesting but having watched one won't need to do all sixty something! 
We pulled into Vienna as we lunched and then headed off on coach then walking city tour. Was here twenty years ago for a day, but very little was familiar. So many tourists enjoying prefect spring weather, diligently following their guide holding a variety of 'follow me' symbols aloft.   It certainly is a very beautiful city. 

Return to ship for change and afternoon tea before heading off into town again for an 'exclusive private concert' at the City Palais Liechtenstein. Extremely grand atmosphere for a very pleasant hour of Strauss and Mozart with 13 piece orchestra and soloists. Delightful. 
We are still dockside for another taste of Vienna tomorrow. Bring on the palace!

Budapest in Four Hours - Oh Please!

A sound sleep followed by a very satisfying breakfast before bracing the 15 degrees for a bus/walking tour if Budapest. Drive through Pest followed by tour of the very impressive opera house with champagne recital. We then headed for the castle in Buda. Back to ship for lunch and sailing. There is no way you can do justice to what is obviously a very interesting and diverse city in four hours. A taste only.

Washing, cards, walking on the sun deck and then an info session about what is ahead to assist the selection of tours was the afternoon. Captains welcome cocktail party before dinner was very pleasant and the dinner that follow very delicious and equally hilarious! Between roses, 'Katut' (our Indonesian waiter), all our Balkan travellers being in silly moods and having a private area ... dinner was memorable.  

As a general observation I have to say ... I feel like I'm in a retirement home! We are definitely 'the girls'!

BTW - internet in inconsistent in the  countryside and valleys of the Danube. I may not get posts up daily in the next two weeks.

Treat Number Two Begins - Budapest to Amsterdam Magnificent Europe River Cruise

Today was very much a driving day. Left Zagreb at 9.30, two short pit stops and arrived at Budapest at 4.30. Pretty intensively farmed land to enjoy enroute.

The river boat is all you could imagine. Our cabin is .... cosy! No cat swinging allowed. Some of our number are in more up market cabins and others at the waterline with a port whole, so we're happy being middle of the road. You get what you pay for! 

Unpacked, safety talk and general intro from executive staff and then a delicious first dinner. This was followed by a twilight cruise down the river under three bridges and back. About forty five minutes. A simply stunning way to begin this experience. The Hungarians know how to light their buildings. 

Tomorrow we have a bus/walking tour of the city before an early afternoon departure for a 23 hour sail to Vienna.  The big question - Can we be as lucky with the weather as we have been? Fingers crossed.

Not A Case of Keeping the Best Til Last!

After all the wonderful places we have been in the last 11 days would have it say Zagreb my least favourite by far. A dreary city really. Bus tour around town was followed by an interesting visit to an impressive cemetery and then to a walking tour. The toilets were the unanimous highlight! 

More walking, a pleasant lunch then off 'home' for some down time. Farewell dinner tonight was pleasant with good food and good company. Only five of he twenty are not continuing on the river cruise.  There is an air of great anticipation for the journey ahead. Fifth new country tomorrow - Hungary. Last border crossing tomorrow. Won't miss them!

Just Your Average Tuesday!

Another beautiful cool but cloudless sky greeted us as we headed for Lake Bled. Once there  we traveled by a wooden boat, powered by a man who rowed all 22 of us, to the island to climb the 99 steps to visit the church. His biceps were very impressive! The scenery was incredible. Time to explore and take and the vistas was given before we returned to the shore to then travel by bus the nearby hilltop castle, where the view was even more impressive. 

Our final Slovenian experience was a delicious three course lunch at a castle, not far from the Croatian border. We sat outside in the courtyard sipping local wine and being treated to the most impressive meal we have had thus far.   

We made our penultimate border crossing back into Croatia and arrived at our grand Art Deco hotel in Zagreb, the nation's capital. Some of us went for an early evening walk to the city with our guide it get an idea of the place. Not as impressive as our other cities/towns which have instantly impressed me with their ambience and old world charm. We'll see if it can capture me, as the other Croatian destinations have, when we explore tomorrow.  

Lovely Ljubljana!

A leisurely 9 o'clock start when we met, yet another, wonderful local guide who proudly introduced us to her university city.  A roam through Austrian styled squares, over cobbled lanes, past and over many bridges of various ages gave us a great introduction to this charming town. A ride up the funicular to the castle followed before finding a riverside cafe for lunch. 
A river cruise followed for 50 minutes, accompanied by atmospheric accordion playing and champagne.   
Starting to feel the effects of early starts and lots of activity each day we headed to our hotel for a rest before a skyscraper terrace sunset scotch.
Another lovely day.

Getaway Didn't Lie

The forecast for today, throughout the week, had been mixed and we were concerned our Plitvice Lakes experience would be dampened, literally. Though we walked the first section in light, short lived sprinkles, we had nothing to fear as the conditions for his amazing UNESCO site were perfect. These 16 lakes which are connected with gurgling cascades and thundering waterfalls were breath taking. A local guide led and explained throughout our three hour tour. This included much ascending and descending amazing networks of boardwalks and stairs and also two trips on electric boats which glided almost silently on the crystal clear alpine water.  Expectations can be a bad thing, but I was in no way disappointed. 

The afternoon journey to Slovenia was a real Austrian affair. The border neighbours have influenced the architecture and culture significantly. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon drive to end our first week of treat number one. 

Beautiful one day - prefect the next!

At the risk of sounding repetitious .... we left under clear blue skies and headed to the simply delightful Adriatic island town of Trogir.  The wonderful guide of yesterday was employed to join us again, explaining the rich and diverse history of this now bustling Croatian town. After the tour we were told to 'get lost' ... as in lose ourselves in the maze of narrow streets and squares, shops and cafés. It was very easy to do and an absolute pleasure. Coffee in the square with the polyphonic delights of local acapella singers just one of the joys of the morning.

We continued on our way with a four hour drive to this evening's accommodation in one of the eight national parks in Croatia, Plitvice. The drive was in two parts. First hugging the Adriatic coast with it's stunning blue water, white beaches and many islands and then to the majestic mountain ranges. Both beautiful and ever changing. 

Another pleasant local dinner tonight with the group. We hit the lakes' walking trails early in the morning. I was so impressed with a recent Getaway segment which was a tantalising preview of what is to come.  Just hoping for another day of perfect blue skies. 

No Palace Like Home

Departing Mostar we headed for the Bosnian mountains. The scenery was continually changing. Things didn't go quite to plan with a poorly sign posted detour and another lengthy boarder crossing but we were eventually rewarded with the magnificent coastal city of Split. The uniqueness of the 6th century palace was revealed to us by another excellent local guide. Just fascinating. Free time which followed was spent exploring the ancient treasure further and getting a dose of retail therapy in the best markets seen thus far. The mid twenty degrees and cloudless skies topped it all off.

We dined alfresco this evening, as a group, overlooking the Adriatic. Sunset, coupled with perfect stillness ensured a delightful backdrop.  Only one night here and it's off to the Plitvice Lakes which has been one of the things I have been looking forward to most. Fingers crossed the weather will continue to be kind.

Where East Meets West

The drive this morning to Sarajevo was reminiscent of the Canadian Rockies. Soaring mountains rising from swift flowing, snow fed rivers. A very enjoyable three hour drive. As there are only 20 of us, our 40 seater coach allows all to have a window seat if desired. Perfect!

Another informative and entertaining local guide explained the complexities of this war torn and culturally diverse, yet largely harmonious, city. The evidence of the recent past is clear but so is the restoration and priority given to doing so with integrity to their rich past.

The cooler weather, though overcast, was a pleasant relief from the heat of the last few days. Am looking forward to a return to the Croatian coast at Split.

Three new countries in four days ....

... This for the girl who hadn't travelled at all before the age of 32!

Heading north from Dubrovnik we travelled along the Dalmatian coast. The over one thousand islands  that 'spot' the coastline were the inspiration for the name of the dog breed. Stunning scenery.   Eventually we left the coast and headed east entering Bosnia and Herzegovina. Unlike the 'soft' borders we had passed through yesterday this was a much more serious one. Checks, particularly of a loaded coach from Turkey, were taken very seriously. Drug and people smuggling from Albania and Turkey particularly an issue. The armed guards would not allow us to get off the bus nor could the driver leave the coach running for the air con. The temp was about 30 by this stage. It was about an hour twenty minutes before we could leave. Not a pleasant experience. Over so many years of travelling together a bit of an in joke is for me to launch into I Spy to indicate I am now officially sick of waiting for something. Today's was a first. .... " I spy with my little eye something beginning with g ..... Gun!"

In less than an hour we arrived in Mostar. A city very badly damaged by the recent war. The bullet/shrapnel marks on buildings was everywhere. Many buildings bombed and abandoned. In sharp contrast, again, was the meticulously restored old city. The highlight if this the bridge which was reproduced as accurately as possible. Only difference is the stone is too clean. It was suggested by our excellent guide that we return in 500 years and then it would be perfect! The Turkish/Muslim influence in the area makes a difference to the architecture and also the wares for sale in the markets. All very interesting.

The arrival at our hotel was a welcome relief from the heat. The five star luxury is a stark contrast to the homes/apartments in the city.  Feeling very fortunate.

Another Day - Another Country

Sunshine greeted us as we headed off to Montenegro. A country in the making ... as a tourist destination at least. First to the city of Kotor, a Venetian influenced port and then to the 3500 year old Budva. Ancient walled cities which have suffered through invasion and war but passionately and patiently restored. Wise planning to get tourists back to visit and stimulate the local economy so the 'modern' city can then be developed. Strict border crossings took time and, as usual, made one appreciate the isolation of home. 

Returning to Dubrovnik a final visit to the walled city for a delicious shared seafood platter and Croatian language lessons, from the always friendly locals,  completed a most delightful stay in this beautiful and perfect start to our first experience of Eastern Europe. 

I packed for European spring so the 32 degrees of today was a rude shock. Hopefully the weather will return to seasonal conditions in the next day or two. 

Delightful Dubrovnik

A lovely day. Began with guided walk under cloudless skies. Learnt some of what is obviously a very long and complex history. Tourist trade is booming. So many tour groups competing for space to gather, learn and admire the beauty if this marble paradise. Perspective was impressive from the  'hill' reached by gondola, as was the clear evidence the fort played so recently, in the 1991 attack on the area. 
An afternoon trip to Lokrum Island, a 10 min ferry ride, was as tranquil as the old town was hectic in the morning. 
The official welcome dinner this evening was very pleasant but the highlight was walking home through the old city, lit so magically.  With a fraction of the people around, the warm, still air and the limestone and marble buildings and paved walkways reflecting the glow of lamp light and candles  from the alfresco restaurants was a most unique site.   
The bar has been set high for the 7 weeks to come!

Treat Number One! Croatia and the Balkan Penninsula

It is 10pm Sunday night here in Dubrovnik, but in Sydney it is 6am Monday morning! So that is about three hours sleep in approximately 48 hours. I'm starting to fade now but really I am doing quite well. Am in the Hotel bar having a nightcap and using the free wifi before a well deserved eight hours at least.
Arrival in Dubrovnik was wonderful. A spectacularly sunny Sunday afternoon. The drive along the coast to the city was stunning. After checking in we explored the old walled city. I confess I have not done my homework so don't understand the history but this will all be revealed in tomorrow morning's guided walk. 
Our group consists of 17 Australians and 3 Kiwis. We are by far the youngest, other than an adult  daughter traveling with her parents. Welcome drinks and briefing on the terrace this evening was the only official activity today.  I am confident I am going to learn lots in the next eleven days as I know very little if this area's ancient and very recent turbulent history.